This is the first thing I ever sent out for publication thirteen years ago. The small literary journal I sent it to has long since folded. The hand-written reply I got from one of the editors commended me, said my work was “eminently publishable” but that the editorial board had stopped accepting essays just recently. I looked up “eminent” in my navy-blue paperback dictionary. So, here is lesson #64110 : Get a rejection letter; learn a new word. It’s all progress.
- FYI: I’ve never known anyone named “Aspeth.” I changed her name
Musings from the Broccoli Forest (circa 1994—R.I.P.!)
Underneath boughs of fuzzy dark hair, Aspeth’s passionate eyes flashed as she proclaimed, “I love animals, I don’t want to eat them! That’s GROSS.” She held her stomach and winced at the thought.
Unsure of what to do next our fourth grade teacher asked if her parents knew about her convictions, and, was Aspeth taking vitamins.
Was Aspeth taking vitamins?! If Mrs. Shapiro only knew about the cache of supplements they had at Aspeth’s house—magical bottles of blood-strengthening elixirs and pills, tablets the size of cookies that smelled like yeast, and powders to mix into full glasses of orange juice. Not to mention the way Aspeth’s mother never let her leave the house without a day’s supply of cheese. It was the protein of the gods! Yes, cheese: Neufchatel, Gruyere, Swiss, American, Cheddar, and cottage, as if cheese itself would cure their poor ten-year-old of her vegetarian “delusions.”
[My memories of Aspeth, to this day in 2007, fit inside the image of a tepid ice bucket, in the bathroom of the Boston hotel room during our 8th grade class trip, where a single-wrap ounce-slice of Cheddar floated limp and blanching.]
While the adult world politely humored her, Aspeth was deadly serious. With all the unripe wisdom, but soul-glowing impulse of childhood, she was laying the foundation for her life. Her beliefs never wavered. As faithful friends, over the years we have methodically refined our arguments against each other’s. From the interstices of our friendship, however, our branches have grown in different directions. We feel different breezes.
I remember having Aspeth over for dinner in the third grade, just months before her declaration of cruelty-free eating habits. We’d spent most of the dinner giggling and rearranging the food on our plates to look like a tropical paradise for auburn-colored men made of long grains of wild rice. We stood our broccoli spears up against our damp milk glasses. The chicken breast was a rocky shoreline. Romaine lettuce was the green sea on which our grainy comrades would sail on celery rafts. My mother didn’t see the creative gift in our edible architecture.
“But don’t you think,” stammered Aspeth, “that broccoli does look like trees?”
“Yes, but the meat on your plate doesn’t look like a bird, so why don’t you girls try and eat it.”
I ate my chicken. Aspeth ate our broccoli.
It took me three hours to fall back to sleep after the nightmare that woke me that night. I’d been lost in the gray dawn mist of a primeval forest. Pushing onward through leafy fronds, watching them bend and crack under my feet, I’d dared myself not to look behind me. There was an ominous rhythm, a pulse coming from nowhere. I stumbled faster, my feet tangling in the cords of vine at my ankles. Still, the panting drummed louder. My destination unrevealed to me, my tongue thick and sticky with thirst, it startled me that the pulse was more like a wheezing. It was like the gulping breath of a lioness after her prey; quicker, harder, louder, as her huge padded paws engulfed earth with each stride.
I whirled around in the thick foliage, when in horror I realized it was the hungry breathing of the forest fronds themselves! Suddenly, the greenery was circling around me cackling with victory, bulbous, knob-headed faces leaning in on me, with leaves that skillfully began ripping me, my skin coming off like clothe from the loom, then whole chunks of my flesh.
I ran to the bathroom to keep from peeing in my bed, and stared at my pink bare feet as I sat on the cold toilet. I wanted to wake Aspeth up (she was in the adjacent twin bed, face down in the pillow—peacefully). I wanted to go downstairs and stare at the seemingly inanimate two-inch broccoli lying captive in our refrigerator. But all I did was sit there. And stare at the flesh on my feet.
Somewhere in my little mind it was crystallizing that life itself had the property of being both prey and predator. The walls between species became transparent veils when sacrifice was measured against loss. What is lost for us, when we plunge our fork into a fine dinner? Then, what is sacrificed from the meal itself? In the fluid cycle of birth to death to birth, isn’t the sustenance of life the harvesting of other life?
We subvert this realization by using a sliding scale of value for organisms. Yet, by what means do we measure the validity of a ‘life’? Does a life become more valuable because it can move (like humans), utter sound (like humans), copulate, congregate, legislate, and educate (like humans)? Of course it is scary to equivocate the value of vegetables with higher vertebrates. Comparing broccoli to man means comparing man to broccoli. We already sign elaborate “living wills” to avoid becoming “vegetables.” Who are we to make biology hierarchical? Life may hold life, provide life, and take life—an ecological trinity, if you will.
The balance of sacrifice in the food chain can only be sincere if we fight the rampant cruelty and waste in many food industries. For millions of us, subsistence living is out of the question. Getting off the subway and Fifth and Noble to procure dinner, rarely means skinning and butchering it yourself. We’ve lost the directness of the experience of being meat eaters. Carnivory is presented to us in bloodless, sterile, cellophane wrappers. Many of us don’t know or care where our meat came from. The only sacrifice we witness now is the surrender of cash.
. . . There’s another paragraph to this essay, where I devolve into explaining how I’d certainly rather kill a carrot than my own kid . . .how we demarcate ‘sanctity’ and value, but you’ve been spared . . . funny how I never thought to bring religion into this argument. At the time, I had NO questions regarding whether I was a Christian. I just was.
In the interim years since this was written I did actually spend a decade as a lacto-ovo vegetarian. Aspeth and I have lost touch, mostly because she lives overseas. I last saw her in 1996 when she lived in San Francisco, dated women, was working in a vegan restaurant (I went with her. It was Thanksgiving. Ever make a turkey out of ‘seitan’??). We walked on the beach arm-in-arm. She’s now married (to a man) and, last I heard, is no longer vegetarian. I miss her.